Posted by Jim Steele on October 18th, 2016 filed in
Given that the Tetons are more famous for technical climbs like the Grand, it’s easy to forget that you can still get that top-of-the-world feeling with no more than a good set of hiking shoes. Static Peak is one of the best options if you want to see the Tetons and Jackson Hole from atop a mountain without needing climbing gear.
Static Peak rises to 11,303 feet and lies on the south end of the heart of the Teton Range, south of the Cathedral Group and north of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Static Peak sits in the shadow of the taller Buck Mountain and is accessed from the highest point of maintained trail in Grand Teton National Park at Static Peak Divide, which crests at 10,790 feet. From the Divide, you gain an additional 513 feet to reach the summit via a steep but manageable social trail that peters in and out. The hike from the trailhead to Static Peak Divide is 8.1 miles.
I love this hike. The view of Phelps Lake from the overlook a mile into the hike is enjoyable, you get a good taste of Death Canyon, and the view from the top is tough to beat. But it’s more than just the views that have made this trip meaningful to me. Whenever I hike up Static Peak – or attempt to hike up Static Peak – something memorable tends to happen. The second time I made it to the top was on an idyllic Indian Summer day when I had the summit to myself. I may have experienced the most mindful hour of my life as I enjoyed th after a solid hour, I realized I better head back down the trail or risk a night hike. Another trip was in early October when two friends and I thought – naively – that we would have no problems squeezing one last alpine hike in before winter set in, planning a shuttle from the Death Canyon Trailhead to the South Teton Trailhead on the west side of the Teton Range. Much to our surprise, the situation at the top was full-on winter. We didn’t make it to the top of Static Peak, but we did complete our shuttle over Static Peak Divide and Buck Mountain Divide, through Alaska Basin and down Teton Canyon. One of my friends had stuffed a winter-grade parka and sleeping bag in his backpack to add extra we could not have been more grateful to have something warm to huddle under while we ate our lunch in winter conditions beneath Static Peak.
The fastest route is via the Valley Trail, Death Canyon Trail and Alaska Basin Trail from the Death Canyon Trailhead at the end of the Whitegrass Ranch Road. Unfortunately, parts of the Whitegrass Ranch Road are extremely rutted, so it is easy to scrape the bottom of a car. (After a rainstorm, mud could also create a major problem). High clearance vehicles are recommended, but I have managed to get my car to this trailhead several times (although not without a few scars). Your mileage may vary. To get to the trailhead, turn west on the Whitegrass Ranch Road from the Moose Wilson Road north of Teton Village and south of Moose. Follow the road until it ends at the trailhead (or as far as your nerves will allow – there are numerous parking spots along the way. Fortunately, it is only the final mile that is particularly frightening).
From the Death Canyon Trailhead, you technically take a spur route for a tenth of a mile until you arrive at a junction with the Valley Trail. Turn left (west) onto the Valley Trail, which takes you to the Phelps Lake overlook in about a mile. From this overlook at 7,200 feet, you have a postcard view of Phelps Lake and the valley beyond its moraine. If you have guests visiting and are only looking for a short hike (about two miles round trip), the Phelps Lake Overlook is a good option.
From the overlook, the trail descends toward the lake. After less than a mile, you come to a junction where you can continue toward the lakeshore on the Valley Trail. Instead, take the Death Canyon Trail, which will lead you toward the gaping mouth of Death Canyon. At this point you are almost certain to be wondering how a trail was carved out of the canyon walls. Before long, you’ll begin gaining elevation as the trail switchbacks to a narrow point where you enter the heart of Death Canyon.
After about four miles, the trail levels off (briefly) and you come to an area where a stream slows down before beginning a series of small cascades. Long grasses and a babbling brook make for a serene scene and offer a perfect spot for a mid-hike snack. Enjoy yourself, then continue on the trail. Soon you’ll arrive at the historic Death Canyon patrol cabin and the junction with the Alaska Basin Trail.
Turn right and begin a relentless climb up a seemingly endless series of switchbacks that will take you up the northeast corner of Death Canyon. As you rise, you’ll have perfect views of the heart of Death Canyon and you’ll understand without question how the Death Canyon Shelf was named. You’re almost certain to dream about pitching a tent in the Death Canyon camping zone as you wonder if your heart is going to give out before you climb out of the canyon.
As you start to approach the end of the switchbacks, you’ll come to an opening along the crest below Albright Peak where you will have a view of Jackson Hole to the east. A short social trail leads to the south, where you have another gorgeous view of Phelps Lake. I highly recommend that you take this quick side trip and enjoy another snack here. One of my more memorable Teton moments came when we did the October shuttle. From this perch we watched clouds quickly forming in the valley below. It was one of the most unforgettable moments of a hike that was memorable from start to finish.
When you return to the trail, the work will resume. Once you finish the climb out of Death Canyon, you will be treated to another view of Jackson Hole, this time of the north end of the valley toward Jenny Lake and Jackson Lake, from a ridgeline where the sight of Static Peak dominates the view. As you will see, you still have some work to do. From this point, another set of switchbacks will complete the climb to Static Peak Divide as you leave the forests of Death Canyon.
After you finally arrive at Static Peak Divide (marked by a sign), you have the option of finishing with the 500 feet of elevation gain stand between you and the summit. The slope is steep but manageable, as long as you stay far away from the steep western and northern faces. Social trails lead most of the way through the talus to the top, but do tend to fade in and out. Note that you should start the scramble to the top from slightly before the Static Peak Divide sign.
And, finally, you arrive at the summit. The view is awesome, and it is one of the most attainable peaks in the Tetons. To the north, Buck Mountain dominates the skyline and you will also see the heart of the Tetons, Jenny Lake and Jackson Lake. Sleeping Indian towers above Jackson Hole to the east. You can see miles of the Snake River winding through the valley, and you also have an awesome view of the Jackson Hole Airport. And perhaps the most unappreciated part of this view is the sight of Rimrock Lake, tucked into the southern walls of Death Canyon and just begging to be climbed to. Every time I see this lake, I dream about waking up along its shores. As you will see from the summit, that would be much easier said than done.
From the summit of Static Peak, you have several options beyond just returning to your car.
One mile to the west is Buck Mountain Divide, and this makes a great side trip before you retrace your steps down Death Canyon. The hike to this divide takes you through an alpine area, directly below Buck Mountain. From Buck Mountain Divide, you have a good view into Alaska Basin.
If you are really motivated, you can continue past Buck Mountain Divide into Alaska Basin.
If you are able to arrange a shuttle or a key swap, leave a car at the South Teton Trailhead in Teton Canyon (accessed via Driggs, Idaho). The route from Death Canyon Trailhead, over Static Peak Divide and Buck Mountain Divide, through Alaska Basin, and down Teton Canyon is 19 miles.
Note: With winter around the corner, your opportunity to do this hike this year has probably passed, so add this to your Summer 2017 bucket list.
Posted by Jim Steele on August 17th, 2016 filed in
NOTE: This is my second article about my adventures in the Grand Canyon in the Spring of 2016. In April 2016, I hiked from the South Rim Village to Phantom Ranch and back. This article describes my May 2016 Rim-to-Rim hike from the South Rim to the North Rim.
A Rim-to-Rim hike in the Grand Canyon is one of the truly iconic adventures in the national parks. We lived in Las Vegas for a year and while we were there, I wanted to check the Rim-to-Rim journey off my bucket list. Because who doesn’t want to hike 22 miles in a day while gaining more than a mile of elevation? My wife thought I was crazy, and she was probably right.
Unfortunately, the optimal season for this hike is short (basically mid-May to early June and mid-September to mid-October in order to avoid the worst of the heat at the base of the canyon and still make the trip while the North Rim Village is open). I hadn’t been able to plan anything in advance, so I was crossing my fingers that I would be able to put an adventure together at the last minute in the second half of May. But the logistics of a Rim-to-Rim hike are challenging at best. You generally need somewhere to stay on the South Rim, somewhere to stay on the North Rim, and transportation for the circuitous four-hour drive that links them. Reservations at the lodges, naturally, tend to fill up quickly. And it would be a shame to get everything planned and then be rained out.
The view from the Bright Angel Trailhead. The trail to Plateau Point is visible near the center of the photo.
With basically one feasible weekend left until we moved away (and that weekend quickly approaching), the situation was grim. The South Rim Village was booked (which I could work around by staying in the Route 66 town of Williams, which is an hour away). The North Rim Village was also booked (which is harder to work around). But the weather forecast looked good, so I held on to hope. Finally, just days in advance, I managed to secure a reservation for a cabin at the North Rim Village thanks to a cancellation. With the most challenging piece of the puzzle in place, I made a reservation on the Trans-Canyon Shuttle for a ride from the North Rim back to the South Rim the day after my adventure (assuming that I survived), then made a reservation in Williams while continuing to watch to see if any rooms became available in South Rim Village. All of the logistical pieces were in place. Now the only question was whether I would live through one of the most rigorous days of hiking I had ever attempted.
My trip started off with a burst of luck. Motel rooms in Williams were fairly expensive so I had booked an economy room. I checked for last minute specials and was able to get a room at the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel for the same price. This hotel is massive (by Williams standards), is reasonably new, and seems to exist to house tour groups that arrive in town before they set off for the South Rim, 60 miles to the north, via the Grand Canyon Railway. The hotel was pleasant, my room was comfortable, and I got to see some of the train memorabilia that is scattered around the property. I was a happy camper. Williams is the last town of any significance before you arrive at the South Rim Village, about an hour to the north (excluding the tourist trap town of Tusayan), so I stocked up on supplies at the Safeway, headed back to my hotel, ate dinner, packed my backpack, and got to bed at sunset in anticipation of an early departure the next morning.
Switchbacks along the Bright Angel Trail.
Everything went according to plan the next morning, and I arrived at the Bright Angel Trailhead at 7:15 a.m. On my South Rim-to-Phantom Ranch-and-back adventure the month before, I had hiked down via the South Kaibab Trail and returned via the Bright Angel Trail. This would be my first time descending via the Bright Angel Trail, and I was excited to get a new perspective. The sense of awe that I experienced the first time I saw the Grand Canyon quickly returned. Words don’t do it justice. Neither do pictures. To really get a sense of the scale of the Grand Canyon, you simply have to see it.
I carefully began descending via switchbacks that are carved into the side of the canyon and can accurately be described as engineering masterpieces. I passed the Mile and a Half Resthouse and the Three Mile Resthouse without incident and saw plenty of people along the way – this was a Saturday in May, and there were numerous other people who wanted to explore the Grand Canyon. And I saw the trail to Plateau Point in the distance, remembering one of the most awe-inspiring places I had visited the month before. Finally I arrived at the Indian Garden Campground, where I refilled my Camelbak with the fresh water that is piped in by the National Park Service. The trailhead for Plateau Point is at Indian Garden Campground, but there was no time for that side trip today.
A blooming cactus.
After Indian Garden, I continued descending toward the Colorado River and saw numerous blooming cacti. These are strangely beautiful, with their waxy blooms and surprisingly bright colors. I also began running into trail runners that were doing the Rim-to-Rim run from the North Rim, and people who were hiking Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim from the North Rim. Mid- to late May is one of the optimal times to do this hike, and plenty of people had received the memo. I was among hundreds of people who hiked Rim-to-Rim that day. Making this trip on a Saturday is not recommended if you are in search of solitude.
After 7.5 miles, I finally reached the Colorado River at Pipe Creek Beach. Having taken both trails, I was able to conclude that the views from the South Kaibab Trail are definitely more sweeping than the views from the Bright Angel Trail, but that both make for an awe-inspiring trip into the Grand Canyon. After dipping my hands in the water and taking a selfie, I was back on the trail for the hike to Phantom Ranch, where I planned to have lunch. This section of the hike is very pleasant – the trail undulates along the shores of the Colorado River, giving you plenty of time to contemplate the forces that carved the dramatic canyon. But it was at this point that the magnitude of what was ahead of me – 14.5 more miles of hiking and about 6,000 feet of elevation gain – started to hit me. It made it harder to enjoy the setting.
The Colorado River at the base of the Grand Canyon. Both footbridges are visible.
At 11:30 a.m., I passed the Bright Angel Campground and arrived at Phantom Ranch. Grand Canyon veterans will know that I wasn’t exactly setting a world-record pace, but I was taking care not to antagonize my knees. There were dozens of other hikers at Phantom Ranch at that time, most doing some kind of a Rim-to-Rim or Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim hike and enjoying a lunch that they had packed in or a sack lunch that they had purchased from the Phantom Ranch Canteen. I had spent a night at Phantom Ranch the month before and thoroughly enjoyed this secluded oasis – miles from roads and supplied by mule – that offered meals and beds to campers. It was fun to return, even if it was just for a quick meal and an opportunity to top off my Camelbak.
A section of “The Box.”
After I ate, I continued to the north along the North Kaibab Trail. The trail follows Bright Angel Creek for quite a while and crosses on two bridges while situated in a tight section of Bright Angel Canyon called The Box. Even without the sweeping views, this segment of the hike is pleasant. This section of the trail is a dramatic contrast with the rims, with desert critters (I saw numerous small lizards) and cacti along the route. After a few miles, the canyon opens up and my sense of the scale of the Grand Canyon was quickly rekindled.
The problem is that for eight miles after Phantom Ranch, the elevation gain is very gradual and you gain “only” 2,000 vertical feet as you hike through The Box, pass a short spur trail to Ribbon Falls, pass the Cottonwood Campground (which seemed like it would have been a note that seasonal water is available), and finally arrive at the Pumphouse and the residence for its caretaker. As this was my first Rim-to-Rim hike, I kept wondering when the real work would begin and just how bad it was going to be. I found out when the trail split from the Old Bright Angel Route, took a turn to the northwest, and began gaining elevation very quickly. From this point, you gain 3,700 feet over about four miles. Fortunately, the views distracted me from the misery. This section of the trail is comparatively lush (especially compared to the desert-like segments near Phantom Ranch), with more trees. The colors are also striking. I was taken aback by the deep reds of the canyon walls, particularly their sharp contrast with the trees. It’s a different experience from the base of the canyon, and a different experience from the South Rim.
The climb to the North Rim.
But the elevation gain is relentless, and this section of trail was exhausting. I watched as the rim slowly got closer and closer, stopping near Supai Tunnel for water and finally arriving at the North Kaibab Trailhead after 7 p.m. after surviving a relentless series of switchbacks. I had completed the Rim-to-Rim hike in around 12 hours. I was thrilled with my accomplishment. And I was thrilled to have seen the amazing scenery along the way. My adventure had been challenging and spectacular. As much as I hate to use a bad cliché, it’s a day I’ll never forget.
And, fortunately, my adventure wasn’t over. Trans-Canyon Shuttle generally offers two shuttles per day from the North Rim to the South Rim (one shuttle per day in the second half of October) and I had scheduled the late shuttle (leaving at 2 p.m.) in order to give myself some time to explore the North Rim area. But first I had to get to my cabin. The North Rim Lodge is located about two miles from the North Kaibab Trailhead via the Bridle Trail. While most people would probably ask someone for a ride, I chose to walk. I arrived at the Lodge after sunset, quickly registered, and took a minute to enjoy the view of the Grand Canyon from the great room of the Lodge. It was a postcard view and I was glad I would have some time to explore the next day. I felt that the views from the North Rim were even better than the views from the South Rim, likely helped by the fact that the North Rim sits 1,400 feet higher than the South Rim, but also assisted by favorable topography.
The North Rim Lodge.
I grabbed a sandwich at the Deli in the Pines in the Lodge (there were no reservations available in the dining room) and took it back to my cabin. As I walked back to my cabin, I started to shiver. (Given its higher elevation, the North Rim tends to be considerably cooler than the South Rim, and the evening was brisk). I hurried back to my cabin, turned on the heater, and warmed up. I had no doubt that my body was telling me that it was done for the day. The message was received loud and clear, and it wasn’t long before I went to bed.
The view from Bright Angel Point.
The next morning I headed back to the Lodge to take advantage of the amazing view, then headed out to the Bright Angel Point Trail (which is a half-mile hike, round trip, from the Lodge onto an outcropping above the canyon). Bright Angel Point offers an even better view of the canyon than the Lodge. I was able to retrace much of my route from the day before, as some of the South Kaibab Trail is visible and the area that the Bright Angel Trail passes through is obvious. Bright Angel Point should definitely be one of your first stops if you visit the North Rim.
A view from the Transept Trail.
I then walked to the North Rim Campground via the Transept Trail, a three-mile (roundtrip) route that follows the canyon rim. The trail is reasonably flat and offers numerous points with amazing views from the edge of the canyon. I was certainly sore from the day before, but not excessively so, and I thoroughly enjoyed both of these North Rim hikes.
A Pueblo foundation along the Transept Trail.
After returning to the Lodge via the Transept Trail, I repacked my backpack, checked out of my cabin, and had lunch in the main dining room of the Lodge. The dining room wasn’t busy and I was able to score a table in front of the massive windows that directly overlook the canyon. Enjoying this view while I ate was the perfect way to wrap up my morning at the North Rim. The South Rim Village is bustling, with numerous lodges, massive parking lots, a full bus system, and even a school, as the South Rim is the easiest to get to from Phoenix and Las Vegas. The North Rim, on the other hand, is quiet and laid back, with only one lodge, two restaurants, one campground, and a gas station. The climate is also materially different, as the North Rim’s higher elevation results in lower temperatures. Hiking on the Transept Trail, in fact, reminded me of Yellowstone National Park, with a slight chill in the air (remember that this was in May) and tall evergreens. Rest assured that if you have only been to the South Rim, an entirely different type of adventure awaits you at the North Rim.
Then at 2 p.m. my shuttle left to return to the South Rim via Jacob Lake, Marble Canyon and Cameron. Our driver pointed out many of the sights along the way, and one of the highlights was the view of the Vermillion Cliffs. By around 6 p.m., I was back at my car, thrilled with my trip but sad that it was over. I will never forget my Rim-to-Rim hike.
Note: As I wrote in Part 1, I have only hiked the Grand Canyon twice and don’t claim to have any particular expertise. However, I learned a lot while researching this trip and had a great time, so I am sharing this article in hopes that someone can benefit from my experiences. There are plenty of ways to experience the Grand Canyon and there is no shortage of information online. Remember that what worked for me may not work for you. With that said, here are a few more notes:
The Park Service bends over backwards to advise people not to hike Rim to Rim in a day, or to hike from the Rim to the Colorado River and back in a day. While I have no doubt that this advice is appropriate for 99 percent of visitors, it obviously doesn’t mean that a Rim-to-Rim hike can’t be done. Whatever adventure you are planning, know your limits and make sure you factor in the variations in weather between the North Rim, South Rim and Phantom Ranch.
Having hiked down via both the Bright Angel and South Kaibab trails, the views from the South Kaibab Trail definitely are better than the views from the Bright Angel Trail. But the Bright Angel Trailhead is somewhat more accessible and the availability of water along the Bright Angel Trail is a major selling point.
Service from the Trans-Canyon Shuttle was outstanding. My shuttle left on time and arrived early. The driver made sure to point out notable landmarks along the way and never got tired of our questions.
Remember that hiking from the South Rim to the North Rim entails 1,400 more feet of elevation gain than hiking from the North Rim to the South Rim. If you have any doubts about whether you are ready for this trip, go from North to South.
If you don’t want to go all the way to the Colorado River, day hikes to Supai Tunnel (from the North Rim) or to Plateau Point (from the South Rim) are also great options. Even these hikes, however, know your limits.
Cell coverage at the North Rim is hit and miss. It seemed to be overflow coverage from the South Rim, so don’t expect a strong signal.
Posted by Jim Steele on July 19th, 2016 filed in
During our year living in the Las Vegas area, I had a bucket list of places I wanted to see and things I wanted to do. It included trips to Zion, Bryce Canyon and Death Valley national parks, a hike up Mt. Charleston, and – most daunting – a Rim-to-Rim hike in the Grand Canyon.
The more I researched it, the more challenging the Grand Canyon trip seemed. The National Park Service bends over backwards to discourage Rim-to-Rim hikes and does everything possible to remind you that dozens of unprepared hikers become statistics every year. The timing of the trip is challenging. It’s best to avoid the middle of the summer, but the season at the North Rim is short (mid-May to mid-October), so the optimal window includes part of May, part of September and part of October. The logistics are just as tough. Even though they are only 12 miles apart as the crow flies, the drive between the Bright Angel Trailhead and the North Kaibab Trailhead takes four hours, and hotel reservations at both rims are tough to get. And the sheer distance and elevation gain involved — 22 miles and 6,000 feet of elevation gain (if you finish at the North Rim) – will humble all except the most extreme athletes.
But I couldn’t get this trip out of my mind. I had been teased with a view of the Grand Canyon on a flight from Atlanta to Las Vegas. I couldn’t wait to actually get there.
My first break came in late April, when I was able to secure a last-minute reservation at Phantom Ranch. Phantom Ranch is a complex of dorms and cabins near the Colorado River at the base of the Grand Canyon, inaccessible by road, supplied by mules and originally built in 1922. It caters to hikers and people on Colorado River trips. April was too early to do a Rim-to-Rim trip, so I figured that South Rim-to-Phantom Ranch-and-Back would be a great consolation prize.
The Phantom Ranch Canteen, where meals are served.
Two trails lead into the Grand Canyon from near South Rim Village: the South Kaibab Trail and the Bright Angel Trail. The Bright Angel Trail is more accessible and seems to be more popular, but when I checked in for my reservation at Phantom Ranch, the gentleman at the Bright Angel Lodge activities desk recommended that I take the South Kaibab Trail. Both trails are similar in length (the South Kaibab gets to Phantom Ranch in 7.4 miles, the Bright Angel in 9.9), and both lead to the same area (both cross the Colorado River on bridges that are less than a mile apart). The advantage of the South Kaibab Trail is that the views are more open. The disadvantage is that there is absolutely no water along the way. The National Park Service provides fresh water at the Indian Garden Campground along the Bright Angel Trail (and, during the summer, at additional locations), but on the South Kaibab Trail, there are no water sources between the Rim and the Colorado River. Armed with a 100-ounce Camelbak, two water bottles and a bottle of Fanta, I chose the South Kaibab Trail. And I was glad I did (although I might make a different decision if I was doing this hike in the middle of the summer).
A view from the South Kaibab Trail.
The views from the South Kaibab Trail are amazing. Sweeping. Dramatic. Humbling. Truly inspiring. Much of the Bright Angel Trail seems to be tucked into an arm of the Grand Canyon (granted, a large arm), so it doesn’t offer the same panoramic views as the South Kaibab. There are other advantages to the Bright Angel Trail, so I decided to hike up it the next day. But for now, I was beyond thrilled with my first Grand Canyon experience on the South Kaibab Trail. After a steep initial descent, the view opened up quickly at Ooh-ahh Point and the views kept getting better past Cedar Ridge (which I found to be an outstanding place to eat lunch) until the first sighting of the Colorado River from Skeleton Point.
A cactus bloom.
Which isn’t to say that the hike isn’t a lot of work. There isn’t much shade along the way. The trail is steep, losing 4,860 feet over 7.4 miles until it reaches Phantom Ranch. There are more switchbacks than you can count. There is no water. There aren’t many outhouses. But the ridgeline segments of this trail offer views that are truly exceptional. Just bring plenty of water and pace yourself so that you don’t tax your knees more than necessary.
A suspension bridge over the Colorado River. The trail goes through a tunnel before it reaches the bridge.
After about six miles, I crossed the Colorado River on one of the two suspension bridges that link the South Rim with the North Rim. These are the only bridges over the Colorado River in a stretch of hundreds of miles, and the view of the river from each is outstanding. You may see people on river trips float by. Trails link these bridges on both sides of the river, so it isn’t a problem to hike down one of the trails, cross one of the bridges, then return via the other bridge and the other trail.
A suspension bridge over the Colorado River.
After crossing the Colorado River and heading west for about a half mile, I came to the junction with the North Kaibab Trail, which continues to the North Rim. After turning to the north and hiking an additional half mile, I arrived at Phantom Ranch.
Phantom Ranch is truly unique. There are few places in the national parks where you can stay in a reasonably modern hotel setting that is miles from the nearest road. From prime real estate at the base of the Grand Canyon, Phantom Ranch offers private cabins or shared dorm rooms (10 beds per dorm) with showers (one per dorm, or shared showers for people staying in the cabins), electricity, and a canteen that serves a hot breakfast and dinner (reservations are required for both) and sells sack lunches. It’s a special, quaint place, and it’s a lot of fun. It’s not as intimate as Granite Park Chalet in Glacier National Park, but the feeling is similar.
Prices for snacks, goods, rooms and meals at Phantom Ranch.
I arrived at Phantom Ranch at 4:30 p.m. and quickly checked in. They assigned my dorm and told me that the beds were first-come, first-serve. I headed to the dorm, which was a single-room cabin that was stuffed with five bunk beds with two beds each. Some of the people in my dorm had hiked in, while others had just finished a river trip and were hiking to the South Rim from Phantom Ranch. It was an interesting mix of people.
A dorm at Phantom Ranch.
I had chosen not to eat dinner at the canteen (options were a steak, beef stew or a vegetarian meal). I hiked the loop that is comprised of the two suspension bridges and the trails on each side of the Colorado River that link these bridges, then found a quiet spot above the river to eat the sandwich that I had packed down. I watched a few people floating down the river while I ate. I also watched the last rays of the sun slowly climb the walls of the canyon. It was a serene scene, and I enjoyed every moment.
The Colorado River from one of the two suspension bridges that link the South Rim and the North Rim.
In the moments after sunset, I headed back to Phantom Ranch. The canteen sells some basic food items, basic supplies (walking sticks, pain relievers, etc.), souvenirs like T-shirts and hats, and postcards, which are carried out by mule and then handed off to the Postal Service. They come pre-stamped saying “Hauled by mule at Phantom Ranch,” and I was excited to send a few out. It was dark after I mailed my postcards, and I took a short walk to the river, enjoying the view of the stars from the base of the canyon. After that, I headed back to my dorm – and was surprised to find that my nine bunk-mates had already gone to bed. The first breakfast is served at 5 a.m. to accommodate people who want to get an early start (avoiding the heat of mid-day is a solid strategy), and I was bunking with a group of early-risers.
The next morning I had breakfast at 6:30 a.m. with the late group, picked up my sack lunch from the canteen, filled my Camelbak, and set off to gain 4,460 feet on my way up the Bright Angel Trail.
After crossing the suspension bridge, the trail follows the river and gains little elevation, making for a pleasant segment of the hike – but one in which I kept wondering when the pain would begin. It came soon enough.
The view of the Colorado River from Plateau Point.
Partway up the canyon, I came to Indian Garden Campground, which is filled with cottonwood trees and is situated along a small creek. It would have been a gorgeous place to pitch a tent. Indian Garden Campground is also the trailhead for the Plateau Point Trail, which spurs off to an amazing view of the Colorado River after 1.5 miles. I was feeling good, so I made this side trip. Plateau Point made for a great place to eat lunch, and the view, both of the river and the canyon walls, was absolutely first rate. During my hike in late April, there were also quite a few wildflowers, including waxy blooms from cactuses. If you have the time and the stamina, I highly recommend this side trail. If you’re looking for a great hike without going all the way to the river, the Bright Angel Trailhead to Plateau Point would be an excellent choice.
The wall that the Bright Angel Trail ascends.
The higher I got in the canyon, the steeper the grade of the trail became, and I began to feel this after Indian Garden. Up to Indian Garden, the elevation gain was reasonably modest. I definitely was getting a workout and broke a sweat, but it wasn’t excruciating. After Indian Garden, the trail got increasingly steeper, and the true pain began. Fortunately, the views helped take away the sting.
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