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焦圈，为摄影而生
&&尼康501.8D镜头怎么使用光圈
50.18D镜头不带驱动马达，需要靠机身的马达带动控制光圈，而尼康入门级单反机身不带机身马达，无法驱动镜头，只有手动调节，A模式M模式下，手动拧光圈环，调节。
你买的时候应该说明清楚，现在尼康出了50 1.8G头，可以在入门单反上用，不过价格是痰盂头的3倍。不过据说对焦速度上有提升。
其实C画幅下，50MM这个焦距很尴尬，倒长不断，出片一般都是大头，小半身。
个人建议可以考虑35MM 1.8G头，更加适用。
打那么多字觉得有用，加点分吧，我正在冲级。
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提出您的问题尼康851.8d和1.8g有什么区别_百度知道
尼康851.8d和1.8g有什么区别
我有更好的答案
其他方面，1.8G也有一些改进1.8D 是手动镜头，但在一些具有机身马达的相机上，也可以实现自动对焦，但不具有全时手动功能（自动对焦后不能继续手动对焦）；1.8G是具有对角马达的.8G成像质量好，无论机身是否具有马达，都可以实现自动对焦，有全时手动功能（自动对焦后能继续手动对焦）；1.8D的光圈叶片数是6片，1.8G是9片，后者焦外成像更好、1。总体来说，1.8D便宜
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16mm f/2.8
Fisheye-NIKKOR AF-D (1993-)
& 2013 KenRockwell.com. All rights reserved.
&&&&&&&&&&&&
Nikon 16mm f/2.8 AF-D ( and
coverage (), rear bayonet filters, 10.3 oz./293g, 0.85'/0.25 m close focus, about
or ; see ). . I got
this one . I'd also get it .
This free website's
biggest source of
is when you use those or any of
when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live & but I receive nothing for my efforts if you buy elsewhere. I'm not NPR; I get no government hand-outs and run no
pledge drives to support my research, so please always use any of
for the best prices and service whenever you get anything. Thanks for helping me
help you! Ken.
August 2013
Older Model:
Oldest model:
Introduction &&&&&&&&
&&&&&&&&&&&&
I can't vouch for
Thi sis Nikon's full-frame fisheye for use on
cameras. It is not
a fisheye on , . On , use onbly the .
fisheye lens fills the entire frame with a useful image, unlike the .
It is ideal for use on the , as well as every film camera, auto and manual focus.
The Nikon 16mm fisheye
offers all the convenience of through-the-lens viewing and metering,
just like every other popular lens. It's
as small as a regular lens,
smaller than
is a fun lens for film and . Used with software like
it becomes much more useful
because you can stretch the curved images back into something less silly. Fisheye Hemi also works with film scans. Be careful about DxO, since there is no module yet for the .
For , get the
Due to the , this 16mm on a
should have
better performance than the
on a DX camera, or in the DX mode of the D3.
examples in my
of how the crappy Zenitar 16mm ($175 new) completely outperforms the Nikon 10.5mm DX on a DX camera as I stop them both down. This real Nikon 16mm oug I'll let you know.
Specifications&&&&&&&&
&&&&&&&&&&&&
Nikon calls this the Nikon AF Fisheye Nikkor 16mm f/2.8 D.
Traditional screw type.
Focal Length
a highly distorted 180 degree angle of view from corner to corner on film or an .
a less crazy 107 degree angle of view. See also .
8 elements in 5 groups.
It has , (), unlike the . The front group moves
out and rotates to focus more closely, while the rear group moves forward but does not rotate. The earlier
had the same number of elements. but is a completely different design without CRC.
7 conventional blades stopping down to f/22.
Dedicated rear bayonet.
Four filters included.
One must always be mounted.
Close Focus
0.85' or 0.25m.
Maximum Reproduction Ratio
Infra-Red focus index
That's the dot at f/4 on the depth-of-field scale.
Mine measures 2.482& around by 2.262& extension from flange
(63.05 x 57.45mm).
The front hood-like section of mine measures 2.402& (61.02mm) the lens
body is slightly thicker than the front.
Nikon specifies 2.5& around (63.5mm) by 2.2& (56mm) long.
Mine measures 10.320 oz. (292.6g.), with no caps but with a mandatory rear filter.
Nikon species 10 oz. (285g) or 10.2 oz (290g), depending on where you read it.
The built-in little petals are mostly for protecting the front element.
CL-31s, optional and extra-cost.
Introduced
November 1993 as a . There never was a non-D version. It's still made today.
Nikon Product Number: 1910.
Math&&&&&&&&
&&&&&&&&&&&&
This uses the usual fisheye projection, which means that equal angles of displacement of the subject from the lens' axis results in equal displacement of that subject from the center of the image.
you math professors, here's the formulae that represents how points on
the subject map to your image:
image displacement on film, mm, from the center of the image
f = focal length, mm
theta = radians displacement from the lens axis
theta = d/f
Performance&&&&&&&&
&&&&&&&&&&&&
On the Nikon D3 at infinity, it's sharp in the center at every aperture. If you're looking at 100% magnification on your computer, it gets slightly softer from diffraction at f/8 and smaller. It's soft in the corners at f/2.8 if you're looking at 100% magnification on your computer, and improves as it stops down until it becomes optimum at f/11.
For most use, stop down to at least f/5.6
for optimum results.
On film, it's sharp and contrasty in the center at every aperture.
In the corners on film, it gets a little softer at f/2.8, but improves a lot at f/4, and by f/5.6 it's perfect again. N anytime you need f/2.8, use it since I doubt you'll see any of its softening in the low-light conditions where one would use f/2.8.
This is better than the average performance of the manual focus fisheye
lenses I've owned. Many of them got very soft in the corners at f/2.8. Not so with the AF it looks great on Velvia 50 at every aperture.
On the D200
complete images from which
crops are taken below at 100% from my .
Full image from D200 ()
Full image from D200 (DX)
Used for center shots below
Used for corner shots below.
Here are crops from the center of my 100% D200
images. These complete images would print at 39& (1m) wide if you printed the whole image this wide.
Center crop, f/2.8
Center crop, f/4
Center crop, f/5.6
Center crop, f/8
As I said, the center always looks perfect regardless of aperture. Just avoid apertures smaller than f/8 due to .
Here are crops from the 100% D200 (DX) images with the gazebo at the corner.
These complete images again would print at 39 & (1m) wide if you printed the whole image.
Corner crop, f/2.8
Corner crop, f/4
Corner crop, f/5.6
Corner crop, f/8
Yes, the f/2.8 image looks awful this big. Don't shoot the 16mm fisheye at f/2.8 in broad daylight if you're going to make 39& wide prints and look at them as closely as you're looking at this screen. Shoot it at f/5.6 or f/8 and it's perfect. Avoid smaller apertures due to . You won't need them for depth of field unless you're doing something really crazy.
I don't yet have a
FX camera from which to show you examples. The FX camera
sees farther to the corners since it's a larger sensor (see ), but the D3 also has less linear resolution, so it ought to look similar.
This looks much better on film because you honestly need a microscope to see things this closely.
If you printed these images from the larger sensor of an FX or 35mm film camera at this same magnification, they would be 59& (1.5m) wide. I doubt anyone would be looking this closely at an image that big, and if they do, shoot at f/5.6 - 8 or buy a Hasselblad fisheye, a Hasselblad body and
back which costs about 100 times as much as this lens.
Color Fringes
As you an see above, color fringes aren't a serious issue with the 16mm fisheye. It's much better than my .
There are none on my D3.
Falloff (darkened corners)
On the D3:
Falloff is only noticable at f/2.8; shoot at f/4 and no problem.
If you're looking for it deliberatly by shooitng a blank sky and toggling between images at different apertures,
it is much better at f/4, almost gone at f/5.6, and completely gone at f/8.
For normal use, just stop down to f/4 and it's invisible.
You're in luck: fisheyes rarely have problems, and likewise, even wide open the corners are as bright as the center.
It's just that with film, I can't flip back and forth among images to see even the slightest invisible falloff as I can on digital.
Ghosts and Flare
no ghosts or flare, so feel free to keep the sun in your images. This is a big deal for fisheyes, since half of the time the sun is in your photos.
AF Speed, like most wide lenses, is just about instantaneous. One full turn of the AF screw brings the focus from infinity down to 1.5.'
Construction
Metal painted with tough-looking crinkle paint. This includes the front integral hood.Only the aperture ring and lens caps are plastic.
Filter Threads
The rear bayonet is metal.
Focus Ring
Ribbed rubber over what seems to be metal.
Only one switch, which is the minimum aperture lock used for most modern cameras which control the aperture from the camera body.
If there's any plastic, I can't see it.
Noises when shaken
Only the most delicate clicking of the diaphragm blades and very slight clunking of the various optical groups which move when focused.
Serial Number
Laser engraved on the bottom of the aperture ring. My Nikon USA lens has its serial number prefixed with &US.&
Hand-Held Long Exposures
get sharp results handheld at 1/15, and probably much, much slower, too.
With its 180 degree front field of view, there are no front or other protective filters available.
The Nikon 16mm comes with a clear bayonet filter on the rear, and three more filters in a small wallet.
Always use one of the filters. If you don't, you'll have focus and corner sharpness problems.
Nikon 16mm rear bayonet filter. (L37c means &clear.&)
Nikon 16mm f/2.8 standard filter wallet with included B2, O56 and A2 filters.
No one ever uses the filters, so if you buy a used 16mm as I did, the filters are usually still wrapped in plastic inside each section of the wallet.
The L37c is Nikon's name for a UV filter. Use this. (L37 means a 370 nm cutoff for you scientists.)
The A2 is a mild warming (amber) filter. A2 is the European designation for 81A. I would take this along and use it with film. With digital I get the same effect by tricky setting of my white balance.
The B2 is a mild cooling (blueing) filter. I' I go out of my way to find warm light.
The O56 is an orange filter for getting great clouds with black-and-white film. (O56 means a 560 nm cutoff for you scientists.)
Nikon will be happy to sell you other colors like Y48 (yellow) and R60 (red) at about $36 a pop.
Other Nikon ultrawides, like the manual focus ,
take these same bayonet filters. The
have a slot for
gel filters instead.
Filter Wallet, snapped closed.
Use with Fisheye Hemi
No problem. The
plugin works great, even with crappy film scans. This scan is from my
without even bothering to mount the slide properly.
Roll your mouse over to see before and after.
California Resort. Roll mouse over to see after Fisheye Hemi.
My apologies for not holding the camera perfectly steady since I wanted to get the shot before I got thrown out. That's why the verticals aren't perfect in the after photo.
Fisheye Hemi works even better on the .
Cabinets at 1 meter (3 feet), before and after the
plugin. (roll mouse over.)
Use with Panorama Tools
calculated the R, G and B panorama tools coefficients as
0.0295, -0.13, 0, 1.1005
for DX digital SLRs.
Use on DX Digital Cameras
cameras get the
instead, since on DX digital cameras this 16mm fisheye
only gives a partial effect.
On a l SLR
you only get a half fisheye effect.
To correct this to rectilinear use
twice, each pass at +100 for distortion
and +150 for size. This gives you:
on a DX camera, uncorrected
corrected.
plugin also has a setting optimized for this lens on a DX camera. It's the &Cropped& option.
Front Lens Cap, Nikon 16mm Fisheye.
The front cap is a special 61mm inside diameter cap which seems to fit the
and manual focus 16mm, too.
loose the front lens cap. Nikon will hit you up for $50 last time I looked to replace one.
I bought a new manual focus 16mm in 1984 it came with a nice, tight professional
metal cap. Today Nikon has replaced that with a cheap piece of plastic
that neither fits well nor keeps out dust, and they still want $50 for
Keep a keen eye: I found a plastic one in a junk box at Samy's in
LA and it only cost me a dollar.
I sometimes use little pieces of self-stick felt
on the inside of the cap to help them stay on the lens better.
The rear cap is the standard Nikon LF-1 rear cap.
Ease of Mounting
Lens mount and CPU contacts, Nikon 16mm f/2.8.
It's easy. Nikon even paints
a screw on the lens
black to help us find the mounting index in the dark.
Recommendations&&&&&&&&
&&&&&&&&&&&&
Be sure if you buy a used one that it has the rear L37c (or L1Bc) bayonet filter attached. If not, the 16mm fisheye won't focus properly, and it will lack corner sharpness when you have to tweak the focus to get focus without the filter. Also get the filter wallet and the three other standard filters.
I find this AF version much better than the , which have a similar but completely different non-CRC design. Since this AF version is also fully AI-s compatible and manually focuses very well, I'd use this AF version for manual focus cameras instead of the older manual version.
Forget this 16mm fisheye for
DSLRs. For DX, get the
instead. This 16mm is for big-boys with
and 35mm film.
If you use this lens on a , be sure it's a good one and that infinity focuses when set to infinity. If not, the CRC system gets confused and really destroys the corner sharpness. On Canon, just get the excellent Canon 15mm fisheye which costs $200 less.
Don't worry about getting tired of it. I've
sold every one of the three new fisheye lenses I've bought in my lifetime for more than
paid for them when I got tired of them in the days before Photoshop plugins. You really can't go wrong if you buy well and tire of it.
If you find this review helpfull, know that my only major source of support is when you use these links and
(see ), but I receive nothing for my efforts if you buy elsewhere. I'm not NPR; I get no government hand-outs and run no
pledge drives to support my research, so please always use any of
for the best prices and service whenever you get anything. Thanks for helping me
help you! Ken.
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September 2007尼康202.8D头怎么样_百度知道
尼康202.8D头怎么样
我有更好的答案
而且，20F2，这支镜头以现在的标准来说有点老了……现在尼康镜头是G头当道.8确实是一支很牛的超广角镜头。但是……作为D头定焦镜头无弱旅，每一支定焦镜头都是可圈可点的
采纳率：93%
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我们会通过消息、邮箱等方式尽快将举报结果通知您。50mm1.8G绝杀!尼康三大定焦镜头对比评测
来源：pconline 原创&
作者：祈迹&
责任编辑：liangjiaxian&
1尼康50mm标头对比:先评后测 整体外观　　【PConline 评测】尼康AF-S 50mm F1.8G上市后，尼康原厂在产的50mm定焦镜头就达到了4款之多，现在最常被人比较的，就是最便宜的1.8D、最贵的1.4G以及新上市的1.8G三款。三款镜头售价差距各异，但性能表现方面又是如何？本文将对比1.8D、1.8G、1.4G三款50mm定焦镜头，让大家在选购时可以找到适合自己的型号。&&&&&&&&&&一、先评后测　　最近尼康推出了AF-S 50mm F1.8G镜头，完成了50mm焦段定焦镜头的更新，进一步完善了G型镜头群。虽然推出50mm F1.8G和50mm F1.4G，但目前尼康并未停产旗下的另外两支D型50mm焦段镜头。不过作为一支拥有16年历史的镜头，50mm F1.4D与其余50mm镜头对比的意义不大，所以本次对比评测只针对1.8D、1.8G以及1.4G。本次对比所用的器材　　1.8D由于没有配备镜身马达，自动对焦是由机身对焦马达驱动的，对于一些没有机身对焦马达的尼康机身来说（、D3100这一类），1.8D镜头虽然可以使用，但就缺少了自动对焦功能。而1.8G以及1.4G均配备超声波马达，对焦驱动由镜头完成，所以在D5100、D3100上就可以实现自动对焦了。
镜头参数对比
AF 50mm F1.8D
AF-S 50mm F1.8G
AF-S 50mm F1.4G
（一片非球面）
全画幅视角
最近对焦距离
最大放大倍率
　　单以售价来看，1.8D确实是众多尼康入门用户所关注的镜头，但奈何不少这类用户都是使用一些没有机身对焦马达的尼康机身，想要使用50mm镜头并且保证自动对焦功能的完整，往往只能选择售价昂贵的1.4G。1.8G的出现，给尼康入门用户提供了一个中间值可选。虽然1800元的售价让不少尼康用户直呼&坑爹&，但面对1.4G几乎高出一倍的价钱，他们还是乖乖的掏钱购买1.8G。二、镜头外观对比体积对比　　 如上图所见，这三支镜头的体积对比是尼康50mm F1.4G大于50mm F1.8G大于50mm F1.8D。而其中因为1.8D不具备对焦马达，所以三者中属它的体积最为小巧。而1.8G与1.4G的体积相仿，只有在细节上有点差距。而重量方面，具备对焦马达的1.8G的重量为185g，与没有对焦马达的1.8D相比，仅重于后者30g，但1.4G的重量就很足了，足足280g的镜头重量。镜头前组镜片对比　　从以上对比可以看到1.8D的前镜片比1.8G的前镜片略大一点，但因为镜身的关系，1.8G却使用比1.8D更大的滤镜，与1.4G同样使用58mm滤镜。不过理论上来说，更大的前镜片，也能拥有更柔和的背景虚化，不过实际表现如何，笔者将在后文解析。镜头后组镜片对比　　从图可以看到尼康三支50mm镜头的后组镜片大小对比，其中后组镜片最小的是50mm F1.8D，而作为它的升级版，1.8G的前组镜片虽然较1.8D小，但后组却反而较大，虽然两者差距不大，但可以推测50mm 1.8G的光路是有较大改变的。而1.4G的后组镜片依旧最大的。有一点要补充一下，1.8G具备了一枚非球面镜片，这对镜头光路有十分重要的校正作用。在此之前，我们也对1.8D、1.4D、1.4G三款镜头进行对比：2尼康50mm标头对比:外观细节比较
前组镜片镀膜对比
　　在镜片镀膜方面，当属1.8D的镀膜最为古老，不过琥珀加紫红色的镀膜的确十分漂亮，极为美轮美奂。而1.4G的镜片镀膜属于尼康刚刚对数码优化镀膜技术的前进时期，镀膜颜色以绿、蓝、紫三色为主，亦显得极为美丽。而最新的1.8G搭载的自然是最新的数码优化镀膜，镀膜颜色只有绿、紫红两色，但就新旧款镀膜来看，1.8G的镀膜对成像的优化也应该更为给力。
后组镜片对比
　　从镜头后组来看，可以看到三者的光圈叶数量，两只F1.8镜头的光圈叶都是7片光圈叶设计，1.8D具备F22的最小光圈，而1.8G只有F16的最小光圈，同时1.8G的光圈形状为圆形光圈，1.8D并非圆形光圈。1.4G具备F1.4-16的光圈，光圈结构为9片光圈叶设计，圆形光圈也更为平滑。
　　1.8G镜头上只有一个光圈锁定杆，而1.8G与1.4G则没有光圈调节环，取而代之的是一个对焦模式切换拨杆。
前组镜片镀膜对比
　　尼康镜头绝大部分都具备对焦距离提示设计，即使廉价的入门镜头都能具备对焦距离提示设计。言归正传，本次对比的三支镜头都具备对焦距离提示设计，而G型镜头更是具备独立的对焦提示窗，更显专业感。3尼康50mm标头对比:各光圈锐度测试三、基础对比测试1、锐度对比测试截取区域示意图
　　由于50 1.4G的前镜片开口率最大，所以在全开光圈的情况下，成像细节会比F1.8光圈的两支镜头略丰富。而同时缩小至F2.0时，也因为1.4G拥有更大的最大光圈，因此在大光圈成像上，1.4G是拥有绝对的优势。当缩小至F2.8，三者就没有什么差距了，其中锐度最高的并不是1.4G，而是1.8G！虽然差距不大，但可见其质量的确不错。
　　当光圈处于F4-8时，三者在锐度表现上是基本一致的，成像都十分锐利几乎没有差距。在锐度表现上，曾经有人对1.8D的评价是在F4开始，成像是不输于24-70mm 2.8G的。先不谈其真实性，有如此评价也能说明其成像质素不弱了。其余两支镜头当然也是不会比其落后了，只是没有拉开差距而已。
　　在小光圈方面，在F11的表现上，三者还处于同一层次，并没有差距。而到了F16时，表现也极为相近，但细看下可以看到1.8D的表现会有略微的优势，而且1.8D还具备最小的F22光圈，只是实用性不会太高。由以上对比可以看得出三者的差距不在小光圈上，而是在大光圈上(全开光圈至F2.8上）。4尼康50mm标头对比:紫边、眩光测试2、紫边控制对比测试　　紫边是指数码相机在拍摄取过程中由于被摄物体反差较大，在高光与低光部位交界处出现的色斑的现象即为数码相机的紫色(或其它颜色)。紫边出现的原因与相机镜头的色散、CCD成像面积过小(成像单元密度大)、相机内部的信号处理算法等有关。
　　在控制紫边能力上，作为最新上市的50 1.8G具备全新的镜片镀膜，所以在紫边控制上，会比其余两支镜头更具优势，在全开光圈的情况下，即使依旧存在紫边，但对比起来，优势十分明显。而且当光圈缩小至F2.8后，紫边得以消除。反观另外两支镜头，紫边控制能力的确是出于弱势。3、抗眩光对比测试　　如果有非正常的强烈光束投射入镜头，会在镜片之间产生强烈反射，影响原本的画面效果。抗眩光较差的镜头，主要表现为画面出现耀斑以及雾化等情况。50 1.8D50 1.8G50 1.4G　　尼康的三款50mm镜头能够有效抑制鬼影与耀斑成因的镜片内反射与光线散射。从测试图片来看，都没有发现鬼影与耀斑，同时在高光处也没有出现雾化现象。5尼康50mm标头对比:背景虚化能力比较4、背景虚化能力对比
不同光圈下的背景虚化对比测试
　　由于光学结构上的差异，在虚化上，具备F1.4光圈的1.4G在虚化上是拥有一定的优势的，具体表现在背景虚化的柔和度、光斑大小和光斑形状等方面。
不同光圈下的背景虚化对比测试
　　看看两支都具备1.8光圈的镜头，在光圈圆滑度上，G型镜头具备明显的优势，在F2.0时，D型镜头就出现了棱角，而G型镜头即使到了F4.0依旧能够保持圆滑的焦外光斑。6尼康50mm标头对比:实拍样张分析1四、实拍样张对比分析　　本次对比评测采用两部D300进行拍摄，机身统一设置为：高感光降噪（标准）、长时间曝光降噪（标准）、色彩优化校准（标准）、D-lighting（自动）等默认设置。而对于镜头成像质量对比，这个其实也是比较主观的，因此笔者也不作会作出过多的描述，更多的是希望各位网友从样张对比中获取更多信息。50 1.8D50 1.8G50 1.4G　　由于最近广州的天气变化较大，光色对色彩的影响十分明显，因此以上样张的色彩变化也有明显的不同，所以以上对比先不谈色彩。三者都在全开光圈的情况下，焦内锐度的表现都有所欠缺，其中表现最佳的是1.4G。50 1.8D50 1.8G50 1.4G　　以上一组对比是在室内稳定的光照条件下拍摄，在相同的曝光参数下，在相等光圈下，1.4G的通光量会相对低的大一点点，所以画面也会相对显得明亮点。50 1.8D50 1.8G50 1.4G　　在人像方面，为避免光色的影响，笔者索性直接使用闪光灯作为主光源，以上对比样张拍摄使用的是手动曝光，闪光灯也采用手动设置，保证光照强度和光色的稳定。从以上对比来看，在锐度上三者是没有区别的，而色彩方面，1.8D的色彩会稍微鲜艳一点。7尼康50mm标头对比:实拍样张分析250 1.8D50 1.8G50 1.4G　　在画面细节描绘和光影过度上，1.4G会相比另外两款镜头会有一定优势（个人感觉）。但对于一般入门用户来说，这些差距可以忽略。不过因为本次对比并不是使用全画幅机身进行，因此有些细节的差异还是很难体现出来的。50 1.8D50 1.8G50 1.4G　　在小光圈成像上，三者再次没有差距。不过在星芒方面，1.8D因为光圈结构上的差异，星芒形状会相对漂亮一定。而1.4G则因为光圈叶数量较多，星芒的齿数也多了不少。50 1.8D50 1.8G50 1.4G　　在阴天的情况下，三者的在色彩上的表现是一致的，而且较小光圈的成像也没有差距，总体来说，如果不使用较大光圈，三者是很难找出差距。8尼康50mm标头对比:评测总结五、PConline评测总结
优缺点总结
AF 50mm F1.8D
1、性价比超高
2、成像质量良好
3、色彩较鲜艳
1、不具备镜身马达，机身兼容性低
2、焦外成像不理想
AF-S 50mm F1.8G
1、拥有超声波对焦马达
2、加入非球面镜片和新的镀膜
3、成像质量优秀
4、附送遮光罩
1、色彩较淡
2、对焦偶尔迟疑
AF-S 50mm F1.4G
1、光圈较大
2、成像质量优秀并稳定
3、拥有超声波对焦马达
4、附送遮光罩
1、价格较高
2、紫边明显
　　从本次对比来看，尼康镜头的品质的确了得，即使是多年前的镜头，其成像质量依旧不会被新镜头超越多少。我们可以发现售价低廉的50 1.8D在总体成像上并不输其余两款产品多少。而新的50 1.8G的成像质量更是直逼3000元级的50 1.4G。总体上来看，这三款产品在成像上并没有决定性的差距。　　不过对于入门级用户来说，无论50 1.8D如何好，但不具备对焦马达的它最终都会令绝大部分入门用户放弃购买，而购买具备机身马达单反（如D90）的用户大多也会考虑购买光圈更大的50 1.4D（当然不排除预算不足或追求性价比而选择1.8D的用户），这样无疑在一定程度上影响了1.8D的销量。　　而在50 1.4G和DX 35 1.8G的推出后，使众多尼康的入门用户感到了春天来了，不过当看到50 1.4G较高的售价（笔者当年就是咬着牙入手的。。）和DX 35 1.8G的虚化不能完全满足需求后，众多尼康的入门用户就极度渴望一支拥有较长焦距、大光圈、对焦马达、售价能够接受的定焦镜头。　　而50 1.8G的出现就是刚好弥补了这一空缺，一上市就受到各位尼康用户的注意。加上1.8G真的没有令各位失望，直逼50 1.4G的优秀成像，相对合理的售价（笔者：怎么不早点来。。。），令它一上市就成了一款热门产品，听说在某卖场出现了一上市就卖光的现象（听说而已，别较真）。　　至于购买哪款适合你呢？笔者认为如果购买了D90这个级别的机身（起码有个机身马达），而预算有点紧张的话，那么购买1.8D是一个不错的选择。而购买了入门机身，甚至是D700这类准专业机身的用户，使用1.8G也完全能够满足你的拍摄要求了。至于1.4G，如果追求大光圈，对背景虚化有要求，或D3级别机身的用户（简称：不缺钱。。），那么1.4G是你当仁不让的选择。
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