How to Shoot in Manual Mode-The Basics - Click it Up a Notch
How to Shoot in Manual Mode-The Basics ,
Don’t we all want to know how to take good pictures??
The best way to improve your photography is learning how to shoot in manual mode.
if you need more convincing :O)When learning how to shoot in manual mode you need to know and understand the “exposure triangle”.
This is made up of your aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.
You use these three components to get your light meter to be at zero.
To find your light meter look through your view finder.
It should be that little line graph at the bottom that looks a little like this: – 2 . . . 1 . . . 0 . . .1 . . .2 + (there should be a little flashing vertical line or “ticker” underneath the graph, this is what you are adjusting)**Please make sure you check on your light meter which side the + and – signs are on.
My example is for Canons.
Nikons look like this + 2 . . . 1 . . . 0 . . . 1 . . . 2 – ** How to shoot in manual modeApertureThe
or sometimes called the “f stop” is what allows you to have those blurry backgrounds people often ask me about.
The lower the number (f1.8) only has a small part of your photo in focus and then slowly gets blurrier as you go out from you focal point.
On my 50mm, the lowest aperture I can go is f1.8.
If I shoot “wide open” (on the lowest number your lens will go) then I will probably only have one eye in focus but will have a nice blurry background.
It is possible to get both eyes in focus but you need to be sure you on the same plane as your subject.
You would need your camera to be parallel to your subject’s eyes.
Basically, get down on their level. :O)
The higher the number of your aperture the more of your picture will be in focus.
For example, if you are shooting people and only want them to be in focus then you want to make sure that your aperture is at least at the same number as there are people in the photo.
If I were taking pictures of both my girls I would want to make sure my aperture was at least at f2.0.
I like it to be around f2.8 when I shoot my girls though.
If there are 5 people then you would want to be at least at f5.0 and so on.
When shooting landscape you would want your aperture number to be a lot higher so that the majority of your picture is in focus.Changing your aperture affects the amount of light in your shot.
The lower the number, the more light is brought in.
The higher the number, the less light.
Therefore, if you do a lot of indoor shooting, it is nice to have a lens with a lower aperture such as f1.8.Remember: Lower number aperture = more light and a blurrier background / Higher number aperture = less light and a sharper backgroundISO 100, ss 1/640, f4.5 (notice my aperture is at a higher number or closed up so both girls are in focus) The type of lens you use is a big factor as to what aperture you can set it on.
When I had a kit lens (the one that came with my camera body) on my old canon, the lowest it went was f3.5.
This made it very difficult for me to use in low lighting situations such as indoor shots.
Also, with an aperture that high you are less likely to get a blurry background.
From the encouragement of a friend, I bought a 50mm 1.8 prime lens.
This is an EXCELLENT lens if you are serious about learning how to shoot in manual mode, it is an inexpensive lens with a low aperture.
Some cameras are not compatible with this lens, such as the Nikon d3000 and Nikon d5000.
For those cameras maybe a 35mm 1.8 would be a better fit.ISO (pronounced by the letters – I – S – O) ISO was once explained to me as the worker bees.
If you have it set at 100, it is like you are sending out 100 worker bees to bring back the light for you.
If you set it higher, 1600 for example, you send out more worker bees, 1600 in this case, to bring back light for you.
The lower the number the less light.
Something to keep in mind about ISO is it can sometimes affect the amount of
in your picture.
Noise is when your picture looks grainy or pixelated.
If your photo is properly exposed it shouldn’t matter what your ISO is set at because it shouldn’t be grainy.Here is a great
written about the noise of a picture.Try to remember that typically if you are outside shooting then you can have a lower ISO such as 100 or 200.
If you are indoors with low lighting you may want to increase your ISO to around 800.Remember: Lower ISO = less light / Higher ISO = more lightISO 400, ss 1/100, f2.8 (I should have opened up my aperture a little {lower number} to allow me to raise my shutter speed to at least 1/125.
Luckily, she was sitting still) ISO 1000, ss 1/50, f3.2 (I used the floor to set my camera on for this photo.
I should have opened my aperture so I could have raised my shutter speed)
Shutter SpeedThis is the amount of time that your shutter is open.
When looking at your camera your shutter speed is written as 1/(a number).
This means that your shutter is open for 1/(whatever the #) of a second.
When shooting people and especially children try not to go any slower than 1/125.
This will help to prevent a blurry picture.
Sometimes 1/125 is not fast enough and you still get some movement in your photo, like in the picture of Kate running, but it is a good rule of thumb.
If your shutter speed gets too slow such as 1/40 then “camera shake” may affect the sharpness of your photo.
You shake your camera whether you mean to or not, which is why you want to keep your shutter speed as high as possible.The lower the bottom number the more light will come in because your shutter is open longer.
The higher the bottom number means less light will be coming in because it is open for less time.
If you are in a low lighting situation and you are taking a picture of something stationary, you can lower your shutter speed to something crazy like 1/20 but just make sure you use a tripod!Remember:
Lower shutter speed = more light but your subject may be blurry / higher shutter speed = less light but possibly a sharper subjectISO 200, ss 1/400, f2.0 ISO 100, ss 1/125, f3.2 (This is a good example to prove that 1/125 won’t always prevent motio notice her hands are blurred.
I should have opened up my aperture and then raised my shutter speed…this seems to be a problem of mine :O)
By adjusting these three things you will be moving the “ticker” back and forth in your light meter.
Ideally, you want to adjust them so that the ticker is on the zero.
It is considered a properly exposed picture if the ticker is on the zero.
Personally, I like the ticker to be one tick to the positive so my photo is a little overexposed.
Play around with it and see what you like :O)
One thing some people have asked is, “In which order should you adjust these to shoot in manual mode?”
It is a personal preference but this is what I do:1. Set my aperture – that way if I’m trying to get a blurry background I have control over that. 2. Set my shutter speed – remember try not to go below 1/125; if my “ticker” is not where I want it after adjusting these two, then I… 3. Change my ISO – I try to do this one last just because I like my ISO to stay at the lowest number possible.
Typically, I can get the exposure I want by just changing my aperture and shutter speed.I will touch on this more later but just a little side note about lenses.
As I said earlier, it is much easier to learn how to shoot in manual mode with a prime lens. Prime lens – does not zoom {you move your feet if you want to get closer}, has a fixed aperture {meaning you control your aperture}, and most people say gives you a sharper image than a zoom lens. Zoom lens – allows you to zoom back and forth, not all zoom lenses have a fixed aperture {I highly recommend a fixed aperture lens} – most kit lenses have a variable aperture so be careful {the aperture changes depending on what focal length you use, not set by you}How to change your ISO, aperture, and shutter speed:Nikon D3000 Canon Rebel T1i I challenge you to go out this week and take your camera off of the green auto square.
Give it a try, shoot in manual mode.
You never know, you may love it and never go back! Check out this post with over
if you have any questions or wish to learn more. Courtney SlazinikLearn it all, step-by-step, with me, the force behind Click it Up a Notch, a Huffington Post Top 5 Blogs for momtographers.A former teacher who got into photography to capture my beautiful family, I am eager to share what I’ve learned over the past 5 years & open the door to photography for other moms.Name*Email* NameThis field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.
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Walt Disney Marissa Lynn - ContributorHi Y’all I’m Marissa, momma to 3 little Young’s and married to my high school sweetheart. I dream of calling the south my home someday but for now we can’t seem to sit still in one place for too long. In my ‘spare’ time I created a journal for families like mine called the , I took traditional journaling and gave i)
2016 Click it up a notchAll Rights ReservedSite byCamera Battery for CR123A DL123A for CANON Prima 5, Prima AS-1 Sure Shot 105
Camera Battery for CR123A DL123A for CANON Prima 5, Prima AS-1 Sure Shot 105
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CaptionARGUS&&&&Argus&APS400,&&&&&Argus&M4000,&&&&&Argus&M7500,&&&&&Argus&M8500,&&&&&Argus&M8500D&ANSCO&&&&Ansco&APSilon&Zoom&250,&&&&&Ansco&Mini&MPZ&1300&Power&Zoom,&&&&&Ansco&MPZ,&&&&&Ansco&Silhouette&Zoom,&&&&&Ansco&Silhouette&Zoom&AFBELL&AND&HOWELL&&&&Bell&and&Howel&960&NP,&&&&&Bell&and&Howel&PZ1000,&&&&&Bell&and&Howel&PZ2000,&&&&&Bell&and&Howel&PZ2200,&&&&&Bell&and&Howel&PZ3000,&&&&&Bell&and&Howel&PZ3000D,&&&&&Bell&and&Howel&PZ3200,&&&&&Bell&and&Howel&PZ3300&BOOTS&&&&Boots&Mini&Zoom&BRAUN&&&&Braun&Trend&Micro&SM,&&&&&&Braun&Trend&Mini&AF-P&&&&Braun&Trend&Zoom&Series&&&&&&&&Trend&Zoom&105,&&Trend&Zoom&105&Quartz&Date,&&Trend&Zoom&70-F,&&&&&&&&&&Trend&Zoom&AP&360&IX&Date,&Trend&Zoom&S-110,&&Trend&Zoom&S-120,&&&&&&&&&&Trend&Zoom&S-135,&&Trend&Zoom&S-60,&&Trend&Zoom&S-70CHINON&&&&Chinon&Auto&GL-AF,&&&&&Chinon&Auto&GL-S,&&&&&Chinon&Belami&AF,&&&&&Chinon&ES-1000,&&&&&Chinon&Monami&&&&Chinon&Pocket&Series&&&&&&&&Pocket&Dual-AFP,&Pocket&Dual-P,&&&&&&&&&Pocket&Dual&Zoom,&Pocket&Dual&Zoom&70M,&&&&&&&&&Pocket&Dual&Zoom&AFCONCORD&&&&Concord&C3000,&&&&&Concord&EyeQ&Go&2000,&&&&&Concord&EyeQ&Go&LCDFUJI&&&&Fuji&Discovery&320&Zoom&Date,&&&&Fuji&DL-1000&Zoom&Date,&&&&&Fuji&DL-290S&Zoom&Date,&&&&Fuji&GX680,&&&&Fuji&Panorama&GX617HAKING&&&&Haking&Silhouette&ZoomKODAK&&&&Kodak&Advantix&C850&ZoomKONICA&MINOLTA&&&&&Konica&Minolta&Capios&130S,&&&&Konica&Minolta&Capios&140A,&&&&Konica&Minolta&Capios&160A,&&&&&Konica&Minolta&Capios&70W,&&&&Konica&Minolta&Capios&75W,&&&&Konica&Minolta&Riva&Zoom&130c&KIT,&&&&Konica&Minolta&Riva&Zoom&160c&KIT,&&&&Konica&Minolta&Zoom&110&KIT,&&&&Konica&Minolta&Zoom&110,&&&&Konica&Minolta&Zoom&160C,&&&&Konica&Minolta&Zoom&85KYOCERA&&&&Kyocera&CONTAX&TVSLLLKYOCERA&YASHICA&&&&Kyocera&Yashica&CONTAX&TVS,&&&&Kyocera&Yashica&Zoomate&110w,&&&&Kyocera&Yashica&Zoomate&115GRF,&&&&&Kyocera&Yashica&Zoomate&120SE,&&&&Kyocera&Yashica&Zoomate&140GRF,&&&&Kyocera&Yashica&Zoomate&165SELEICA&&&&Leica&C2,&&&&&Leica&Mini&ZoomMINOLTA&&&&Minolta&Maxxum&9,&&&&&Minolta&Maxxum&9TiNIKON&&&&Nikon&10x42SE&CF&(Binoculars),&&&&Nikon&12x50SE&CF&(Binoculars),&&&&Nikon&8x32SE&CF&(Binoculars),&&&&Nikon&NIGHT&SEARCH(&Night&Vision&Scope),&&&&Nikon&SB-30(Speedlight),&&&&Nikon&SB-50DX&(Speedlight),&&&&Nikon&Speedlinght&SB-800OLYMPUS&&&&Olympus&Accura&Zoom&80s,&&&&Olympus&BH941P&(Ice-Cream&Ma),&&&&Olympus&C3000,&&&&Olympus&ES7801S&(Shaver)&&&&Olympus&Super&Series&&&&&&&&Super&Zoom&105,&Super&Zoom&105G,&&&&&&&&Super&Zoom&110,&Super&Zoom&120&&&&Olympus&u&Series&&&&&&&&u&Zoom&130,&u-1,&u-2,&&&&&&&&u-Panorama&&&&Olympus&u-II&Series&&&&&&&&u-II,&u-II&110,&u-II&115VF,&&&&&&&&u-II&170VF,&u-II&80VF,&&&&&&&&u-II&Limited,&u-II&Zoom&80&Panorama,&&&&&&&&u-II&Zoom&VF,&u-II&Zoom&&&&Olympus&u-III&Series&&&&&&&&u-III&120,&u-III&135,&u-III&150&QD,&&&&&&&&u-III&150,&u-III&170,&u-III&80,&&&&&&&&u-III&Wide&100&QD,&u-III&wide&100,&&&&&&&&u-III&Wide&80&&&&Olympus&u-Zoom&Series&&&&&&&&u-Zoom&105&Deluxe(L),&u-Zoom&105,&&&&&&&&u-Zoom&115&Deluxe,&u-Zoom&115,&&&&&&&&u-Zoom&140,&u-Zoom&140VF,&&&&&&&&&u-Zoom&170,&u-Zoom&70,&&&&&&&&u-Zoom&80,&u-Zoom&Wide&80&Deluxe,&&&&&&&&u-Zoom&Wide&80PREMIER&&&&&Premier&M8500ROLLEI&&&&Rollei&Prego&70&ZoomSAMSUNG&&&&&SamSung&Mini&ZoomSUREFIRE&&&&&Surefire&Handgun&Weaponlight&X200A,&&&&Surefire&Handgun&Weaponlight&X200B,&&&&Surefire&HL1-A-TN,&&&&Surefire&M1&Infrared&Illuminator,&&&&Surefire&M2-Package,&&&&Surefire&M3-00,&&&&Surefire&M3T-00,&&&&Surefire&M4-00,&&&&Surefire&M6-00&&&&Surefire&Handgun&Weaponlight&MILITARY&Series,&&&&Surefire&Handgun&Weaponlight&NITROLON&SeriesTOSHIBA&&&&Toshiba&Allegretto&PDR2,&&&&Toshiba&Allegretto5,&&&&Toshiba&BK-2312,&&&&Toshiba&BK-2322,&&&&Toshiba&BK-2323VOIGTLANDER&&&&&Voigtlander&Brilliant&2xZoom,&&&&Voigtlander&Vito&700,&&&&Voigtlander&Vito&C-AF,&&&&Voigtlander&Vito&II&28-70,&&&&&Voigtlander&Vitomatic&105,&&&&Voigtlander&Vitomatic&115,&&&&Voigtlander&Vitomatic&140,&&&&Voigtlander&Vitomatic&70YASHICA&&&&&Yashica&T2
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